Growing Tomatoes in Zone 6B: Complete Guide

Homegrown tomatoes are the ultimate in taste and texture. So much better than the cardboard grocery knockoff ones. Tomatoes need some care but are easy to grow and productive, saving you lots of money.

This is a complete guide to types and varieties that do well in Zone 6B, how to choose tomatoes, and how to grow your tomatoes from seed.

Types of Tomatoes

There are seven main types of tomatoes each with many different varieties. The grower typically chooses what types to grow based on what they plan to do with the tomato.

Here is a list of the types and my personal favorites for Zone 6B.

1. Beefsteak

The giants of the tomato world these big guys can get to two pounds or more. Beefsteaks tend to have a more mild flavor. They are great sliced for sandwiches and burgers.

The plants get quite tall so they do need plenty of room and some serious support.

Striped German

Beefsteaks come in a multitude of colors. Striped German from Johnny’s is an heirloom variety that is a marbled yellow and red. They have excellent flavor and take 78 days to mature.

I like Striped German for burgers and they hold up well on the grill.

Black Krim

Another favorite in my household for cheese sandwiches is the Black Krim. It has a fabulous flavor but is a tad juicy and does not do as well for grilling. They can weigh up to a pound and have excellent yields for me in Zone 6B.

An heirloom from Eastern Europe they need time out in the sun and take 80 days to mature.

2. Cherry

The cherry tomato is round, small, and grows in clusters. They are often sweet and make great snacks. They have thin skin so work well in salads and side dishes with light cooking.

Sungold

I love cherry tomatoes and my all-time favorite is Sungolds. They are one of the few hybrids that I grow and the taste is exquisite.

Sungolds are ‘stand in the garden and eat them’ - very sweet. Fabulous for packing in lunch boxes for kids and adults!

They mature in 57 days after transplanting and are very prolific. One caution is they are prone to cracking after a heavy summer rain. If they crack the answer is to eat them quickly!

3. Grape

Grape tomatoes come in a host of flavors ranging from sweet to tangy. They are shaped like a large oval grape and can easily be sliced in half to be bite-sized.

Similar to cherry tomatoes, they have a thicker skin and meatier texture which makes them great for cooking with.

The plants only get about three feet high and work well on patios and for city gardeners. Grape toms are a hit for snacks and work well in stews, roasted whole with chicken or fish, and added to pasta dishes.

Juliet

Juliet is my favorite grape tomato. It’s very versatile and works well as a snack or sliced in half for salads. It also dries well. In the winter I use the dried ones in stirfry for some fresh tomato flavor.

They also cook well and I have sliced and broiled them with cheese as a nice appetizer.

Juliet is indeterminate and the fruit grows in large clusters.

4. Green

The type Green Tomato can be a bit confusing. There are tomatoes that are green when ripe. We also pick tomatoes in the fall that are green and will not have the chance to ripen outside due to cooler weather.

In the south, green tomato dishes are quite popular.

I have honestly not tried many green varieties. Comment below if you have a favorite!

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5. Heirloom

An older variety that is indeterminate and open-pollinated. Many heirlooms are specific to regions and were developed to grow well in a climate.

Its well worth your time finding out the history of some local heirlooms. Not only are they suited for your area but they will taste delicious.

Heirloom tomatoes are found in all types of tomatoes such as slicers, beefsteak, and cherry. They are also valuable because you can save the seed from them every year.

I grow predominantly heirloom crops. I love trying new tomato varieties. Some of my favorite heirlooms for taste are Brandywine, Hillbilly, and Paul Robeson.

6. Plum

Low water and firm texture make these tomatoes the best for canning and cooking things that simmer for a long time like sauces and stews. They are also great for drying.

I like to make homemade sauce so I always grow a lot of paste tomatoes.

Amish Paste

Amish Paste is my favorite canning tomato. It has great flavor and it holds up well during processing. An indeterminate heirloom takes 85 days to mature.

They don’t like to be crowded so give them plenty of room. Trellising is a must.

I always need to monitor my Amish Paste closely because the bugs seem to like them as much as I do.

Orange Banana

This is another paste tomato that I just love. It has a beautiful orange color which holds when processing. I like to mix them with Amish Paste when cooking or preserving them just because they look pretty.

Great flavor, 85 days. It is susceptible to blossom end rot so plan for rich soil.

7. Slicers

Slicers are large tomatoes with a round shape. They are juicy and flavorful. Many varieties also hold up well for processing.

Again I grow mostly heirlooms and this is a category where heirlooms shine.

Rutgers

My all-time favorite and the tomato I can’t live without is Rutgers. They are great fresh sliced onto sandwiches and they are also a great canning tomato. I love to just quarter and process them and then use them in winter soups and stews.

Planting Tomatoes Zone 6B

Tomatoes have two different growth patterns. Determinate and indeterminate. It’s important to know which type your tomato is because that will dictate where and how you plant it.

Determinate:

These are more compact plants that do well in pots and smaller gardens. Their growth will stop at a specific height and they are usually quite bushy.

Some determinates stand on their own and others do better with some support. Fruit ripens within a specific time frame.

Indeterminate:

These varieties will keep growing until stopped by frost. (Remember tomatoes are perennials in their native habitat). These tomatoes need staking or you can let them spread like squash plants along the ground.

Indeterminate varieties take more space but in smaller gardens, they do well when trellised to a fence or wall. Fruit continues to ripen throughout their growing period.

Preparing The Soil

Ideally, you are preparing the soil for tomatoes in the fall before planting. However, don’t fret if you are not - we can work with that.

Tomatoes need a location in full sun with well-draining soil. Many areas of USDA Zone 6B have heavy clay soil.

Tomatoes like rich soil so add plenty of aged compost. This will add nutrients and good tilth.

Never add fresh manure - not even more mild manure such as rabbit - because you will get lots of leaves and little fruit.

Tomatoes need phosphorus and calcium. Gypsum can be added in the fall and will make the soil lighter as well as add calcium.

A soil pH of around 6.5-6.7 is best. Add lime if your pH is lower.

Read my article on soil testing.

Seeding

I start tomatoes in a 3-inch Jiffy or a 24 tray. I will admit that I don’t like to bump up seedlings so I start in a good size for older seedlings.

I use light seedling soil. Soil should be slightly damp.

I seed my tomatoes around March 15. Honestly, I’ve tried earlier and it has not gained me any time. You also run the risk of them getting leggy and not being as healthy and strong as they should be.

So I stick with March 15 as my target. That way I can move them from the grow room to the greenhouse in mid-April. If we are having an early spring I will plant some under a heavy row cover in the raised beds.

Another tactic I like to use in getting young tomatoes outside is the straw cold frame covered with plastic.

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Germination:

Tomatoes like a warm start. I sometimes have trouble getting their seed trays warm enough. They prefer 75–85°F (24–29°C).

I typically have to work to get the air temperature up to 70 F. One way to provide extra warmth during germination is to use a seed mat.

After your seeds germinate you should keep the room between 60–70°F (16–21°C). It’s ok if your night temps drop five to ten degrees or so (Never below 50 F). This actually helps prevent stretching.

I do not recommend direct seeding in the garden, even if you use row cover. In Zone 6B we are susceptible to cold spring rains which deter germination and rot the seeds.

Lights

Artificial lights are very beneficial for young seedlings. Putting seeds in a southern window is beneficial but it does not supply the amount of sunlight your seeds need to grow productively.

The best lights are adjustable. Keep the lights within a few inches of your plants and raise them accordingly.

Tomatoes in cage. Photo by Ame Vanorio

Transplanting

It’s important to aim for good transplant timing. Tomatoes can be picky about transplanting and don’t like change. To help with making a good transition set your seedling trays outside during nice days.

I often take my trays from the grow room to the greenhouse to help them get used to being “outside”.

Once they are ready to plant in the ground, dig a deep hole with your trowel and plant them right up to the first leaves. I sometimes even remove the lowest leaves before planting in the ground.

By planting the seedlings deeply you give the tomato an advantage. They will send roots out of the stem to better anchor and feed the young plant.

I have a friend that owns a greenhouse and I have often been gifted with leftover leggy tomato plants. You can put these in the garden by laying them horizontally on their sides with just the top leaves above the soil line. They will need some time to settle in and adjust but they will become viable and productive plants.

Plant tomatoes 18 - 24 inches apart if you are using rows.

If you are using raised beds with deep soil you can have them on the closer end.

Where Can I Purchase Tomato Plants?

You may not have the space or inclination to grow your own plants. Or you may just want to plant one or two on the patio for fresh eating.

Don’t buy tomatoes (or other plants) at big box stores. These are generic plants that are shipped all over the country. These plants also tend to have diseases such as blight.

Purchase transplants from local farmers at a local farmers market or from smaller family-run greenhouses. They will be growing plants that do well in your area. Another advantage is you can ask them any questions about dealing with local weather or insect issues.

How Many Tomatoes?

The general rule of thumb is to plant two or three plants per person for fresh eating.

If you plan on canning then you would need four to five plants per person of the varieties you will be using.

Read my article on garden planning.

How To Grow The Earliest Tomato

It seems like every neighborhood has its champion tomato gardener. Growing tomatoes can sometimes feel like a competition!

How do you get the first tomato on the block?

Getting a ripe tomato in early July was often my goal. Who doesn’t want ripe tomatoes on the 4th of July?

This takes a mixture of talent and luck. Getting your tomato seeds going early, having cooperative weather, and using a fast ripening variety are all important components.

One way to get early tomatoes is to plant varieties that mature quickly. Sub-arctic and Fourth of July (both around 50 days) are two quick maturing varieties however, I’m not a big fan of either.

My plan is to stick with the hybrids I know and love and just try to get a good jump on the season by using extension techniques.

You can read my article Building and Using Cold Frames To Extend Your Harvest

Caring For Your Tomatoes

Fertilizing

I fertilize my tomatoes when I transplant them and about every two weeks through the growing season with organic fish emulsion.

Mulch

Tomatoes love mulch. Mulch not only helps conserve water during dry spells but also helps moderate the amount of water in the soil.

Mulch is also valuable in disease prevention as it prevents splashback from the dirt onto the plant. This helps protect from soil-borne diseases such as Fusarium wilt.

Trellising tomatoes. Photo by Ame Vanorio

Trellising

There is an endless garden argument on whether to trellis or not. I have done both.

Trellising keeps the plants off the ground and protects them from diseases. Harvesting is more efficient.

Letting plants sprawl may get you higher yields but can make harvesting more difficult.

There are many ways to trellis or stake your plants. Tomato cages are popular.

Don’t buy the flimsy, plastic trellis netting they sell in big box stores. In late summer when your plants are large and weighted down with fruit the whole structure will just collapse.

A section of cattle panel fencing is very sturdy and you can tie the plants to it.

You can also place metal fence posts in a line and run string in between them.

Problems

So the truth is - tomatoes can and do get a number of diseases and can be prone to insect pests. However, its all about management.

There are numerous things you can do to prevent issues.

How To Prevent Issues in Tomatoes

• Plant varieties that grow well in your region - this may involve some trial and error

• Plant varieties that are resistant to your biggest problems

• Make sure your soil meets your plant nutritional levels

• Make sure they are spaced correctly and get good airflow

• Spend time in the garden!

Blight

Blight is the dreaded disease among tomato growers. There are two main types of blight - early and late - which are caused by different organisms.

Early blight is not as severe in Zone 6B and is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani. It shows up as dried leaves on the lower stem of the plants.

Plants with Early Blight should be tossed in the garbage and not composted because the organism is very difficult to kill.

Late Blight starts with dried leaves but then can move onto the fruits as crusty lesions. It is harder to control than early blight. Late Blight is caused by the mold Phytophthora infestans.

It spreads quickly in cool wet weather. Prevention is the best answer. Neem Oil may help with early signs but can not stop advanced cases.

Ways to Manage Blight in Zone 6B

• Crop rotation

• Keep them growing fast without stress

• Staking/trellising

• Water from the bottom, use drip irrigation

• Don’t grow near potatoes

• Disinfect cages with bleach at end of the season

Blossom End Rot

This is very common some years and is caused by an inability for the tomato to get the right amount of calcium from the soil. This can be a tricky issue to nail down.

Start with taking a soil test and checking for calcium and pH level.

The tomato needs a balance of calcium and moisture in the soil to absorb and use the nutrient.

Keeping the soil moist but not overly wet is important. Granted this can be hard when you face thunderstorms but having well-draining soil also helps.

Stinkbugs

These nasty buggers have become a big problem in recent years in Kentucky. They suck the fluids out of plants and fruits.

Where their mouthparts puncture the plant can lead to pathogens entering the plant and causing more damage.

Sunscald

this happens when the shoulders of the tomato become bleached out or whitened. It typically comes from a lack of leaf production so the fruits are more exposed. However, a lack of nitrogen or water can also contribute.

A tomato horn worm in my garden. Photo by Ame Vanorio

Tomato Hornworm

This is truly a fascinating if not creepy insect. The good news is your children and chickens will love them.

They are easy to spot due to their large size. They also have distinctive poop. Look for them under leaves and on the stem.

We just pick them off and feed them to chickens or ducks. You can also use Monterey Garden Insect Spray on them.

Companion Planting

Tomatoes do well with basil and marigolds as mentioned above. They both help repel pests. In addition, they are compatible with chives and parsley.

Tomatoes DON’T like being around cucumbers, rosemary, or potatoes.

Harvesting and Storing

Harvesting tomatoes is easy. Just give them a gentle half-twist and pull from the vine.

Store tomatoes in a cool dark place. Use them within three days. They will keep up to two weeks in the refrigerator but some of the quality diminishes.

If you are picking before they are quite ripe then set in a sunny windowsill.

The best part - harvesting! Photo by Ame Vanorio

Author, Ame Vanorio, has 29+ years of experience gardening organically in USDA Zone 6. She is the founder of Fox Run Environmental Education Center. Check out her Author Page on Amazon.